Prior to this trip, I had never traveled alone. I had taken the occasional flight by myself, but never a full blown solo trip.
I decided to go to Copenhagen in Denmark, Malmo in Sweden, and Hamburg in Germany. My plans started with Copenhagen, and then I branched out from there. I loved Copenhagen. It reminded me a lot of Stockholm, but a bit smaller in scale. My day in Malmo was nice, but nothing special. Lastly, Hamburg was a cool city, but it got uncomfortably cold. I also think that there are probably some better cities to travel to in Germany.
I enjoyed traveling alone for about two thirds of my trip, I’d say. I enjoyed being able to do what I want, when I wanted to. I was able to wake up early, hit the ground running, then curl up with my book at night. The downside, though, was not being able to share the experience with anybody. I got a bit lonely some days and wished that I could share dishes at restaurants with somebody. With that said, I did not go out of my way to try to meet anybody or any other solo travelers.
Sat Oct 26: Copenhagen
My journey technically started Friday evening at work. I took the 1 train uptown to Penn Station. Then I hopped on a Newark Airport station-bound train where I caught the AirTrain. It sounds like a hefty endeavor, but it’s easy when you’ve done it once before. It never takes me more than an hour to get to EWR for work.
My flight boarded after 11pm and I periodically napped my way through it. I’ve never been a good sleeper on planes. We landed about a half hour early at 1pm on Saturday. I grabbed my checked luggage, purchased a Copenhagen Card on the app, and took the train to Copenhagen Central Station. I would highly recommend getting the Copenhagen Card because it not only includes public transit, but also entry into some of Copenhagen’s major attractions.
My hotel was just around the corner: Urban House Meininger. I sat in the lobby for about thirty minutes until my room was ready at 3pm. I washed my face, changed my clothes, and headed to the 7A bus stop to go to Frederiksberg Slot. Since I didn’t purchase a SIM card, I always made sure I had directions loaded on Google Maps prior to leaving the hotel.
The sky was grey and occasionally I felt a spritz of rain. The palace building itself was smaller than I expected, but the surrounding garden(s) are huge. At this point there was a constant mist of rain, but it was refreshing after being on the plane for what felt like an eternity. Even in the rain, lots of people were running and walking through the park. I walked past a small pond with a fountain and row boats, and a couple of cute dogs being walked.
I wouldn’t normally go to a zoo, but the Copenhagen Zoo is adjacent to the gardens and access was included in the Copenhagen Card. I walked around until I was tired. Then I caught the 7A bus back towards my hotel. I stopped at Fotex for some snacks for dinner because I didn’t envision myself leaving the room once I returned. I picked up some smoked salmon, some Danish rugbrod bread, and a small wedge of brie.
Surprisingly, I felt a little more energetic after eating so I left the hotel and walked to Tivoli. Entry to Tivoli was also included in the Copenhagen card, but ride tickets weren’t included. I didn’t anticipate wanting to ride anything, but then I saw a couple of fun looking rides. I bought three tickets and rode the Daemonen roller coaster; the Demon in English. The ride was sort of Asian themed, with dragons and lanterns all over. After that, I wandered around until I found the exit and headed back to the hotel for the night.
Sun Oct 27: Copenhagen
After a much needed full night of sleep in a real bed, I woke up around 7:45. After breakfast at the hotel, I walked to the Canal Tours Copenhagen stand. The first boat was at 9:30 and I was early, so I wandered through some of the smaller streets. I saw Christiansborg Palace from across the canal. By 9:15, a noticeable crowd formed around the ticket booth, so I stayed close. I didn’t need a ticket with my Copenhagen Card.
We sailed from Gammel Strand to the Nyhavn canal with all the picturesque colorful buildings. First, we passed Skuespilhuset (the Danish playhouse), the Opera house, and Holmen (the old naval base). Then we saw the Little Mermaid statue (from Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale) and Amelienborg (the royal palace and home) before heading through the Christianshavn canal. We passed under the circle bridge to the Royal Library and got a real close look at Blox (the Danish architecture museum). The canal tour was a great way to get a quick (one hour) guided tour of the main attractions in Copenhagen. I would highly recommend it.
After the boat ride, I walked past the Church of the Holy Spirit to The Round Tower. I used my Copenhagen Card for entry and walked all the way up. At the top of a very narrow staircase is a 360 degree view platform. It was beautiful.
Around noon I went to Aaman’s 1921 for lunch. I had made a reservation, but I’m not sure I needed it. For lunch, they had a smorrebrod a la carte menu. I got a herring one and a fried plaice one. It was delicious and the vibe of the restaurant was to die for.
I was supposed to do a Bike Copenhagen with Mike tour that afternoon, but I couldn’t seem to get my debit card to work to get cash to pay for it. I was so bummed! I must have tried 6+ ATMs in the area and I had zero luck. Instead I walked to City Hall Square and Christiansborg Palace. I toured the royal reception rooms and the stables, then waited in line to go up to the tower. Like the Round Tower, you get 360 degree views of the city. Then I walked to the Royal Library, which I had seen from canal tour boat. The sun was starting to set and the way that the light hit the glass outside of the library was cool. I kept walking along the canal until I saw the Cycle Snake, a bike bridge.
I didn’t feel like being too adventurous for dinner, so I went to MaMeMi, a brick oven pizza and wine bar. As a New York City resident, I have to say it was pretty good. The crust was thin, slightly bubbly, and super crisp.
Mon Oct 28: Copenhagen
I chose to eat a very light breakfast because I was headed to CPH Cooking School for a baking class. The class started at 9am and concluded around noon. I arrived a bit early so I was able to walk around and explore the kitchen. The space was absolutely beautiful.
We made so many delicious things: sourdough rolls, cardamom buns, sesame and poppy seed twists, tea buns, and rye bread loaves. Our class was small with only three of us, so we were all involved in each item. We sat down after for a nice brunch, and we each left with a doggy bag.
Full of baked goods, I walked to Nyhavn to take a couple more photos. I made it about one block before I reached into my shopping bag and pulled out a spare cinnamon bun from class. It was still a bit warm. I walked down the Havnegade Harbour Promenade to find the sidewalk trampolines. It’s so odd to find trampolines on the sidewalk, but so fun to jump on them.
I turned around and walked towards Amalienborg and its museum, and then to Frederiks Kirka. I passed the Denmark Design Museum on my way to Kastellet. I wandered aimlessly around for a bit, then found an exit and walked to the Little Mermaid statue. I didn’t have to go looking too hard for the statue because there were crowds of people nearby.
I walked through Nyboder, a neighborhood of matching mustard yellow apartments that used to be naval barracks, then down towards all the shops in Indre By. When I got hungry, I stopped at Restaurant Kronborg for dinner. I ordered two smorrebrods: meatball and herring.
Tues Oct 29: Malmo
Another early morning, as I had booked a train to Malmo, Sweden that departed at 8:47. I was nervous about getting on the wrong train, but the train/track screens were easy to understand in Copenhagen Central Station. Once on the train, lucky for me, all announcements were made in Danish and then English.
I walked around the Malmohus Slott and the square where the Karl X Gustav statue is. Then I headed to St. Peters Church and Caroli Church. I left old town to see St. John’s Church. I passed the Malmo chocolate museum and really considered going in. Eventually I made it to the Möllevångstorget, an outdoor produce market.
I turned around and walked back towards Gamla Staden. Leisurely, I made my way to Malmo Saluhall, an indoor food market. I did a lap around, picked up a cardamom bun, and thought about what I wanted. I decided on a reuben and then stracciatella ice cream.
I went to sit back outside because the sun was shining and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. As I sat, I watched a couple families fish in the canal. I wondered whether it was for fun or for food because I didn’t see anybody catch anything.
Wed Oct 30: Copenhagen
I slept in a bit because I was in no rush this day. I had breakfast then walked north of Central Station through Orsteds Park. When I got to the Botanical Garden, I made sure to look at a map to see where the Palm House is because I wanted to go inside. There were five greenhouses all with different climate and plant types. In the largest room there was a staircase you could climb, and you could walk the perimeter of the room. Below the palm house there was a succulent house and a butterfly house. Again, the Copenhagen Card came in handy here because I didn’t have to purchase the ticket.
After walking through the Palm House, I crossed the street to Rosenborg Slott and the Kings Gardens. I didn’t have much interest in walking through the castle, itself, but I walked through the gardens.
I stopped back in the hotel to grab my bathing suit for CopenHot. I took the 2A bus out to Refshaleoen then walked about 15 minutes. I honestly thought I was at the wrong place, but there were many signs indicating I was on the right path. There were about ten people for the 2pm reservation. We introduced ourselves and we carefully climbed into the hot tub. I sat next to a girl from Basking Ridge and Hoboken, go figure.
We bounced between the hot tub to the sauna and the folks from CopenHot insisted we jump into the ocean as well. I put my feet in and immediately felt them turn to icicles. There was no way I was jumping in.
Thurs Oct 31: Hamburg
My train to Hamburg departed at 7:35 so I was awake at 6:30. I had reserved a train seat online, but for some reason I was afraid of somebody sitting in my seat. When the train arrived at the platform, I found my car number and seat number relatively easy. And there was nobody sitting in my seat. Phew! We left on time and made our way through grey Denmark. I had purchased coffee in the train station, and I had snacks from my last stop at Fotex, the grocery store.
Two hours of rolling farm hills later, we had made it to the Danish border. When we got to Rødby, the train drove up onto a ferry. We left our luggage on the train, but we had to exit the train for the duration of the ferry ride. The ferry was more like a small cruise ship. There were shops and cafes and a couple outdoor decks. Once we hit land, the train drove off the boat and after a 45 minute ride, we arrived in Hamburg. I found my hotel with ease, dropped my bags and headed out to explore.
I walked to the town hall, passed the St. Nikolai memorial, and towards the St. Pauli landing bridges. The sidewalks and bridges were bustling with people (all tourists I presume), food vendors, and boat tours. The whole area smelled of fried fish and pomme frites. I made it to Brücke 10 home to a very popular seafood sandwich shop. I didn’t feel like waiting an hour and I also didn’t have cash, so I kept walking. I continued to the underground Elbe Tunnel between bridge 6 and 7.
I then walked down Reeperbahn, which I imagined would have looked very different at nighttime. When I reached St. Michaels church, I paid five euro to go up into the tower to a viewing platform.
I sat down at the Old Commercial Room restaurant for dinner, famous for its labskaus. I think the best way to describe it would be meat and potatoes mixed into one, served with fried eggs, beets, and a gherkin. I thought it was interesting, but it’s nothing I would ever order again.
Fri Nov 1: Hamburg
The sky was a lot more grey this day and the air was very cold. After breakfast, I hustled to Miniatur Wunderland because I knew it would be busy. They were sold out at the time I arrived, so I got a ticket for 12:30.
In the meantime, I headed to the Elbphilharmonie Hamburg. Tickets are free, but you must get a ticket to visit the plaza level. I rode the long escalator up to the viewing platform level. I walked all the way around. The building is a giant trapezoid and one side was significantly windier than the other. It was neat to see the building up close. From afar, the roof looks pitched like a giant circus tent. And the sides of the building look like fish scales.
I sat down in the cafe across the street for some tea because my fingers were freezing. The real feel had to be in the low 40’s if not high 30’s. Then I walked into Speicherstadt Kaffeerösterei simply because there were a lot of people hanging outside. Turns out, it’s a huge coffee roastery. It was cool to see the machines roasting green coffee beans to dark. I didn’t buy anything to eat or drink, but I did wander through the shop, which had everything from beans to Bodum appliances.
I went back to Miniatur Wunderland for my ticketed time. They hold the Guinness World Record for largest model railway. It was unexpectedly cool. They had a little bit of everything: Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon, the Sistine Chapel and Pompeii, and Hamburg of course. About every fifteen minutes, the lighting changes from day to night. It was impressive.
I walked a lot in the afternoon: to Chilehaus, Deichtorhallen Hamburg, and Kunsthalle Hamburg. I had a ticket for an English tour of the Chocoversum, the chocolate museum, so I made sure I wasn’t late. While our museum group was large and filled with a lot of kids under 10, I really enjoyed it. We got a brief overview of the process of chocolate from the plant to the factory, plus we got to taste a couple of the steps in between. Towards the end we got to make our own chocolate bar by choosing milk or dark and then adding toppings. It was fun!
When I left, it was drizzling a bit. I walked back to the hotel to drop some of my things, then went just down the block to Schifferborse for dinner. I ordered a cider and the jägerschnitzel. Unlike the night prior, I really enjoyed the food.
Sat Nov 2: Copenhagen
My train departed Hamburg the next morning and by this point I was comfortable with finding my train car and seat on the train. I met the cutest rottweiler puppy on the ferry and then she and her owner sat next to me for the rest of the train ride back to Copenhagen. Her name was Jackie and her teeth were like razor blades, but I loved her anyway.
I checked into the Hotel Astoria right by the train station. I walked around Copenhagen for a bit, aimlessly. I stopped into Sonny, a cute café, for matcha and a place to read.
I now know that I should have made a dinner reservation at Olive Kitchen and Bar, because I showed up around 5:30 and they had no tables for the rest of the evening. Oof! I had read good things about the restaurant’s fixed price menu and I had gotten myself all excited. Instead I dove to the opposite of the food spectrum and stopped at the nearest Max Hamburger.
Sun Nov 3
My flight was around 10, so I left the hotel early, well before 7. I caught a train to the airport, checked my bag, and went through security. I stopped at duty free and then sat down at Aaman’s for one last Danish breakfast.
Additional things I wish I did in Copenhagen:
Ride the Himmelskibet at Tivoli
Tour the underground Cisterns in Søndermarken
Eat dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar
Eat dinner at Marv & Ben